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Leria- A modern city overlooked by an ancient castle

De Leiria Leiria is a growing modern city on the banks of the Liz River. With a hilltop castle, an inviting old quarter, and good transportation links, it is a good place to stay for those who also want to explore Nazaré , Fátima , or the abbeys of Batalha and Alcobaça . The imposing castle can be seen from any point in town. In the 14th century it served as a summer royal palace for King Dinis and his queen, and included a Gothic church now in ruins. Parts of the interior are frequently used for exhibitions, and from the Gothic arches of an elegant arched balcony there's a magnificent view of the city and its surroundings. In the old town, easily reached on foot from the castle, there are some attractive 16th and 17th century buildings, and a plain Renaissance church that is the city's 16th century cathedral with an elegant vaulted nave inside. A good place to rest is Rodrigues Lobo Square with some fine arcaded buildings and shops. The narrow streets from the nearby Candi...

Cube designs in starchitects' golf resort by the sea

Something radical is happening in golf resort planning: KEVIN O'CONNOR visits a development in northern Portugal designed by 23 European starchitects FUSING “art and nature” was the demanding challenge given to architects designing Bom Sucesso, a resort about 50kms north of Lisbon – but the result is visually remarkable. For art, read architecture and for nature read the coastline washed by Atlantic breakers. That’s the setting for a development of villas and townhouses designed by teams of Europe’s leading architects, each a prizewinner for previous work and each willing to mesh with others’ ideas to deliver the resort known as Bom Sucesso – the good success. The architects include Portugal ’s Álvaro Siza Viera, who has just won Britain’s top architectural prize, the RIBA gold medal for 2009; Manuel Aires Mateus, who is designing the hotel in Dublin’s Grand Canal Dock; and David Chipperfield, one of the UK’s internationally best known architects. The i...